This project aims to revolutionise the lingerie sector by introducing an innovative digital tool designed for lingerie designers, pattern makers, and manufacturers, accelerating internal processes and embracing inclusivity of shape and size variations. Despite the traditional nature of the lingerie industry, where the creation to client delivery process can extend up to 18 months, this initiative proposes the integration of 3D prototyping to enhance design, development, and production. By replacing physical samples with digital 3D models, the project promises faster, cost-effective, and sustainable solutions, addressing the current limitations in fitting and visualising diverse breast shapes and sizes. The tool will be compatible with software like CLO3D, adjustable for realistic shapes and sizes, and capable of predicting the effects of different brassiere models. Using statistical shape modelling, the digital avatar will allow for adjustments to cater to variations in women's breast volume, shape, skin tone, and personal preferences, thereby addressing the industry's challenge of inclusivity and paving the way for mass customisation and improved online shopping experiences.
The lingerie industry struggles with incorporating diverse breast shapes and sizes in the design process, leading to limitations in fitting and visualisation. Current 3D models lack realism, often based on scans with sportswear, omitting the impact of different brassiere models. This project seeks to develop a digital tool that integrates a broad spectrum of brassiere models, shapes, and sizes into a customizable 3D body model, enhancing inclusivity and efficiency in lingerie design and production.
Preliminary research conducted by HYPERcurve explored essential variables such as brassiere models and sizing systems. The subsequent two-fold study involved recruiting participants from HYPERcurve's customer network to assess various brassiere models' fit. Comprehensive data, including bra size, body measurements, body weight, age, and breast firmness, were collected, providing a rich dataset for analysis. Breast firmness was measured using silicone sample samples for comparison, in which participants compared their own breast firmness to the silicone samples with different shore values.
The scans were made with a handheld Artec Eva structured light scanner. Only the torso was registered, including shoulders and crotch, for alignment purposes. Eventually, only the region from shoulders to navel were processed in the Blendshape tool. For the scanning procedure, a turning platform was used. The participants were instructed to place their hands on their hips, to stand up straight using a plate and to relax their shoulders. This posture was determined to least affect the breast shape.
The gathered data, rich in detail and scope, informed a strategic selection process, ensuring alignment with the project's objectives. This critical phase involved sifting through the collected information to identify the most relevant data sets for further analysis.
A comprehensive comparison of the data ensued, employing sophisticated algorithms and software tools to dissect and understand the nuances of bra fit across different models. This analytical process was instrumental in drawing meaningful insights from the data, highlighted by the use of heatmap analyses to visualise the fit differences between various brassieres.
The Fieldlab researchers' development of a statistical shape model, integrated as a plugin for Blender, exemplifies the application of parametric modelling in this project. This tool allowed the dynamic adjustment of body and bra properties, enabling designers to iteratively refine the design without starting from scratch, thus streamlining the design process.
The project also embraced the principles of co-creation, engaging users in the development process to tailor the UPPS to individual preferences. This collaborative approach, enabled by the Blendshape tool, allowed for a more personalised and user-centric design outcome, reflecting the diverse needs and preferences of the target user group.
The research has illuminated the significant potential of using 3D body scans, particularly for specific body parts, in the lingerie design process, offering a new dimension to personalisation and fit accuracy. The study's exploration into breast firmness and its impact on shape variation has been particularly informative, debunking initial assumptions about the difficulty and variability of self-assessment. Despite the tool's current sophistication, its reliance on a limited dataset and a narrow range of brassiere models underscores the need for expansion to enhance its applicability and accuracy across diverse body types and lingerie styles. Future iterations could benefit from incorporating a wider array of subjects and brassiere models, thereby enriching the tool's versatility and utility from design through to sales.
The research highlights the necessity for ongoing and in-depth exploration into the multifaceted components affecting bra fit, from underwire shape and breast tissue firmness to material properties and demographic factors. The project's strides towards creating an intuitive and scientifically robust digital sculpting tool highlight the need for further refinement in breast area identification, data retention in bodyscan to design translation, and mesh quality in complex regions. This foundational work sets the stage for a more intuitive, comprehensive tool capable of revolutionising lingerie personalisation and inclusivity, suggesting a promising future where digital innovation meets consumer-centric design.
